From the surrealist magic at Schiaparelli to the whimsical prints of Thebe Magugu, these seem to be from a fashion month that editors are still dreaming of.
By fashion staff
Dated 12 March 2021
Last season, the designers figured out how to unveil their collection. But now many people feel comfortable telling their stories in a new way. Two great examples from the most recent Fashion Month: Saul Nash’s video with a surprising twist, and a gorgeous film from Roxanda that proves to you that there are some famous friends and three iPhones to get the message across beautifully. One thing is certain: Creativity lives on in this new, mostly digital, reality.
here, Fashion The editors looked at the Dreamstyle from the Fall / Winter 2021 collection in New York, London, Paris, Milan and beyond.
Miu Miu’s Fall 21 formula is a simple one: skywear over silk, plus a pair of sturdy shoes for trudging through deep snow. But the actual form is anything but dull. The quilted outerwear comes in beautiful pastels and a cap mask or bold 70s floral crochet in bold stripes, also a figure that appears on border-bound camis and slip dresses. Style on the pile may be a bit much for many people, but here are a lot of fun pieces we would love to see on Canadian slopes and sidewalks. —Bernadette Morra, Editor-in-Chief
Move on to Birkin. There should be a new Hermas in the city. And his name is Hermesway. This clever little crossbio was easy to miss, as it was held in the hands of the models, as they wore their fringed suits and dotted clothes. Designed to keep the essentials close at hand, the Hermèsway has a phone pocket, lipstick or a box for balm (Hermès, Bien Sur), front pockets with two credit cards and an AirPods case (Classic and Pro). Can close a place for Flap Now go to the waitlist. —BM
The 60s nightclub Le Castel was the setting for something much more intimate than the usual channel shows, which usually have an army of models through the cavernous Grand Palais. Virginie Viard’s Fall 21 collection was however large on the narrations, including boots with short or faux shear legs that were unzipped to reveal the slicker booties underneath. This is a genius idea for next winter, when we bump into the dance floor and get stuck inside for a year. —BM
Drees, who was longing for a live performance, seemed to be grabbing Van Noten, who dared a group of dancers and models on a stage in Antwerp. They swing, cry and dance with pink sequins, marabou vests and elaborate jackets, completely captured by Caspar Seijerson. Later, Van Naughten told Vogue.com that she was content enough to put her clothes on the line-up of re-lit teenage girls. After watching this video, we can see why. —BM
Canada’s New York runway darling Tanya Taylor never disappoints with clothes that can easily be understood by both … and wear. Perhaps not surprisingly, he used the “living house” as an inspector for the falls: not climbing above the walls, as the case may be, but comfort. Porous flowers have roomy clothes, and finely colored checks have slouchy coats. And Taylor has cleverly designed a denim frock that could be a nice transition piece to get back into the boardroom, as some of us may find ourselves sooner than we think. —BM
I love Nicolas Gesquière and I love Fornacetti, an Italian artisan house, so the collaboration between the two on the delightful print that took place throughout the collection was a match made in heaven for me. Nobody likes Gesquier any more, not to mention seeing more, sculptural-sized iterations. -Odessa Paloma Parker, Fashion News Director
I simply assume a simplified gesture in fashion design, and the belting detail on many of the pieces in this collection – which has a “gemstone” effect thanks to the elimination of the Trompe L’Eyel embellishments – is absolutely on my mind. Blows up Proof that creativity is still flourishing through the epidemic, and designers are still banking on people wanting to make a statement with their clothes! —OPP
The collection is a stunning, spirituality-inspired effort by an emerging South African designer with elegant silhouettes, eclectic print-work and unusual accents like straw that came with refreshing effects. The artistic layering and whimsical sophistication of this dress is enough to make this name look. —OPP
Paris-based creative clothing continues to explore content relentlessly along the continuum; According to a press release, the collection is composed half “by revived styles”, with the other half boasting “products realized using recycled fiber.” The result is that everyone has fallen, from chill wardrobe basics to more ecological patchwork. —OPP
Once again, the brand’s designer Hillary Temour experimented not only with the presentation of her seasonal offering – this time using delightful animations for morph models (such as our March cover star, Jazelle Zanugati) in an array of animals, but Also how far she can push. Use of waste clothing in its design. We see various materials such as a T-shirt from a Ghanaian market, as well as items sourced from his previous collection and the consignment of Real Real used in the making of these real looks, from discarded clothing. —OPP
A lot of drama ensued on Patou, dressed comfortably. The label’s bold, voluminous Fall 21 collection is surprisingly made up of 70 percent organic or recycled materials, proving that dissipation is not equal to excess. Giant arms and bubble hems offered versatility in pieces, which could be styled in more than one way and accommodate more inclusive shapes. -Liza Grossman, Fashion Editor
Leave it at the corner to take the casual dressing to the next level. Covering from head to toe (literally) in a plush set like the pink cardigan and leggings shown on the Fall / Winter 2021 runway would be a fashionable dream come true when the temperature drops once again well below zero. We will take styling tips directly from the catwalk and layer our dresses above a comfort base. –
Decorating several pieces of this season celebrating its 70th anniversary with the founding year “1951”, Max Mara showed us the classics with a spin. Max Mara is nothing like a camel coat, but this season, I’m giving a pocket version with oversized pockets and plenty of space for my masks and sanitizers. A sophisticated mix of heritage checks and adorable llama prints made the collection the perfect balance of fashion and fun. –
The fickle but slightly blunt one that Simone Rocha served this season. Fantasy sheer layers with moto jackets and sweet embroidery swoop me in, not to mention platforms with pearl-embellished laces. I will take tickets wherever I am going Simone Rocha girl. –
Full disclosure, I wore a Daniel Frankel gown at my wedding and have been a loyal fan ever since I was engaged. It is called love at first sight; Frankel’s attention to detail and craftsmanship is something to behold and it is no surprise that she is moving ahead of the bridal market with her first RTW collection. The romantic collection of the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up included a collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, which kicks this season straight out of Carrie Bradshaw’s dreams. –
Kim Jones’ first collection for the home was elegant and simple, with a neutral palette of grounding, earthy colors. Lux silk, satin, knit, and signature furs were reinterpreted in unexpected ways, such as uneducated pieces with a touch of fringe. This standout two-piece night top and pencil skirt set with faux fur caryl is perfect for a chic getaway (we can dream!). -George Antonopoulos, creative and fashion director
Prada’s Fall 21 collection “explores the space that exists between traditional polar contrast, according to the house”. The collection was all about ease and speed, showcasing geometric-printed long sleeve dresses under suit separates, blazers, furry vests, platform shoes, cocoon coats and more signature prop toppers.
Standouts included this yellow coat with powder blue platform boots. -Ga
Surrealism and fantasy reigned supreme in Schiaparelli’s Fall 21 collection. Gold breast plates molded above the tweed blazer, giant gilded ears, finger duster rings, gold brooches and headpieces styled with mega-platform clampers were among the many jaw-dropping elements that anyone could find. Used to attract the eyes of The reference-meeting-Elsa Schiaparelli surrealism of Grace Jones originally worked and gave a much-needed dose of escapism. -Ga
Who doesn’t love a fairy tale? Maria Grazia’s collection of Chiyuri’s Fall 21 Dyer gave a hint to the legacy of the house with a tomboy-meets-alice in Wonderland Twist. Among the classic silhouettes, menswear dresses and timeless pieces, the standout featured a laser-cut school girl dress in black leather and was a dark, romantic floral menswear inspired set. -Ga
There are no rules with Palmo Spain. Fearlessness and a Jane Z becomes anything attitude This house is known to genderless fashion lovers. The sequinned dress with the bucket hat was giving me serious Cher-Meat-California Dreamin vibes. -Ga